The yin and yang of travel

Seems like we are experiencing what some friends have been alluding to when they mentioned that "it won't all be good". I'm feeling a bit discouraged by the weather forecast. We've arrived in Port Hardy (northern Vancouver Island)amidst drizzle and apparently 20mm are on their way. Rumour has it that there is no rain down south (so we will head there, although here at the hostel Patrick also clarified that no rain means showers - they make a clear distinction between the two here!). We've had two cushie nights in 2 different hostels; hot showers with real towels, kitchen facilities, clean, dry sheets (beats damp sleeping bags hands down), and of course heat. We are weighing money against comfort (I question if maybe we should just hole up here), which may be the universal travellers' dilemma. I think we'll risk leaving and head down to Strathcona Park, via Telegraph Cove and the whale museum. We had 2 incredible ferry rides to get here. Skidegate (QCI) to Prince Rupert, and then Prince Rupert to Port Hardy (15 hours). We saw many humpback whales, two that breached and played in the water for at least 10 minutes (ask Bar how hard they are to photograph with a Canon PowerShot). The trip down the Inside Passage was fantastic and we met two lovely siblings from BC travelling together with a beautiful 3 month old baby girl. They gave us some great travel advice, and we had good conversations. Friday or Saturday, we ferry to Powell River to visit good friends; the promise of connection filled with anticipation! We've met loads of wonderful people, but truthfully, at times I've been lonely. Nothing replaces the company of family and friends. I'm experiencing a somehwat poignant duality - a longing for all we've left behind, mingling with a sense of adventure and curiosity about what might come next, gratitude for the incredible luxury of simply being free to travel. This is an emotionally rich experience and we are still learning to ride the wave. Some parts of me are having to harden, while others are being called to soften. I am learning to let go of control, and my close friends may intuit the challenge this can be for me. A challenge, but not necessarily hard - just the "edge" I'm walking these days. In other words, it's all good in a yin/yang sorta' way. To everyone who sends a thought our way, via email or FB, thanks A LOT and keep 'em coming. Possibly sadly, I am reminded of Celine Dion's song, "You are the Wind Beneath my Wings". Cliche and sappy, but so appropriate for us right now. It is amazing to me, that even as we venture farther and farther from home, we still feel so connected, loved, and supported. This truly sustains us and propels us forward - you help us spread our wings and fly. It is its own profound and beautiful lesson, and I marvel at how far these connections can stretch. I find myself singing a song Ruby wrote 2 years ago at Emerald Lake "My Moon" (sorry if I got the title wrong Ruby) - the idea that we are all looking at the same moon even though we are miles apart. Love to all and keep doing the sunshine dance for us. XOXOXO - D

Reflections from Our Lady of the Flannel

There is so much on my mind these days I hardly know where to start. We are learning about landscape, people, and country but are also learning about ourselves and each other. Primarily, each day we are reminded to be open. This can be a challenge at times, but if I am patient with myself, and give myself time to "feel" a place, I have always been able to find something to appreciate about the experience. Right now, for example, we are in a private campground which at first made me very uncomfortable but was a good choice for real, practical reasons. We have been here 2 nights and I've become so grateful for the hot, wood-fired shower, flush toilet, covered picnic table totally sheltered from wind and rain, and a covered wash area. Heaven are these small luxuries. One thing I've really enjoyed learning about is how the Haida hold women in high esteem, especially the elder women. At the potlatch when the entire crowd was being addressed in speeches, first mentioned were the cheifs and second the "boss ladies" or "esteemed ladies". It is a matrilineal culture and of course, pays due respect to elders. Ceremony seems to play large, and seems to involve most of the community if not all. There is so much incredible art and beauty. People are very friendly and there are some vibrant, funky pockets in the small mostly white towns. I am so glad we have come here. The weather has been less than stellar. Mostly I wear rubber boots, my wool toque, a fleeze and have a raincoat on hand. Some will not be surprised to know that my gloves are getting a good workout. But even this, has not really dampened our spirits. I am thinking about work, of any sort, and its value. So many of my daily routines were wrapped aropund my work schedule. Now all that is gone and many of the "rituals" I held dear have been let go. Gladly, this is OK. I find small ways to establish some personal space, and have changed my thinking on some things - like clean just might be a relative thing, and Jiffy Pop just might be the perfect snack. One can do a fair bit of yoga standing up, and sometimes simply breathing is the practice for the day. We are getting better at this thing called travel. As always, love to all. Your love and friendship sustains us.

Haida Gwaii 3

Start of a day's beach bike with Tow Hill in background

Driftwood on North Beach with Tow Hill way in the background

Starfish on Agate Beach

In shore trail at high tide...Agate Beach

Looking out to Rose Spit

Warrior pose?

See Alaska?

The drive into Agate Beach was lined with Sitka Spuce draped in moss that I thought of as carpet moss. It was truly magical.






Sunset beach view from our campsite



Haida Gwaii 2

Agate Beach - low tide

Tow Hill reflecting off mud flats

"Knuckle" chunk of basalt poking through the sand at base of outcrop

Haida Gwaii

It is raining today. All day. The good thing about this is that we had the BEST cinnamon buns with raisins I've ever had in the cutest, coziest, warmest cafe one might ever find in the midst of a forest. We are learning that being open is what travelling is all about. We are currently camped on gorgeous Agate Beach on the northern-most shore of Haida Gwaii just outside of Masset. Camping here is cheap - 16$ per night. Generally this gets one access to a great beach, drinking water, and pit toilets. At this particular campground there is also an enclosed shelter with a wood stove, which we envision using once we return to our no doubt soggy site. Recently we've come to the conclusion that we need to stay at least 2 nights in one place, because tear down and set-up of camping gear can be a pain. Weather for tomorrow looks fair enough that we can hike this huge stretch of beach... so we think we'll be here 3 nights!

Ferry Prince Rupert to Queen Charlotte Island. Saw orcas and humpback whales!

Hiking into Spirit Lake - just outside of Skidegate.

Spirit Lake was pretty small, but very peaceful. We spent a fair bit of time just sitting by the lake watching 3 marvelous eagles.

We were pretty close to this beautiful bird

Big trees - there are lots of them. In a way our photos can't do them justice. The phrase "formidable forest" comes to mind. There is also lots of green and moss, moss, and more moss.

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Log stairs hiking into Yakoun Lake.



Yakoun Lake near Queen Charlotte City.

Same lake - enough said.

Community Potlatch/Feast to celebrate raising of Legacy Pole on Lyell Island. At least 1000 people were fed: soups, fresh crab, salmon, halibut, crab cakes and octopus fritters. Desserts, veggies and dip, and fruit. In addition, people were invited to take food home. For all those who stayed until the end (we got there at 3, left at 9:30, end at 1:30am) as witnesses, gifts were given out.

The Pesuta shipwreck of 1928 in Naikoon Provincial Park.

Naikoon Provincial Park beach looking into Hecate Strait.

Barry having fun with some bull kelp.

Our lovely new friend Mary on her Harley. We spent 2 nights with her and hiked together to see the Pesuta. I will forever remember her quote: "you gotta' ride your ride".

View north from Tow Hill

View in other direction from Tow Hill. We are camped on this beach.

Tow Hill - a basalt outcrop.

The beach at low tide has left tons of small swirls of sand with little breathing holes. What are they?

"Our" beach at low tide





Full moon rising

Funky Moon Over Naikoon Bakery. BEST cinnamon buns on a rainy morning. 

Mossy cemetary of Masset

Getting through Canada

As it turns out, driving through Canada and camping is alot of work. We've had 5 solid days in the car, the last one being between Jasper and Burns Lake BC which took 12 hours. Yes we took a lunch break by Slim Creek, yes we hiked 45 minutes through the short Ancient Forest trail East of Prince George, but still 12 hours in a car is enough to drive one crazy (I won't mention the mistake we made that added an extra hour to the trip). We are now pretty fast with setup and tear down, and usually work effectively as a team. Because we have chosen some long travel days, we've been able to stay 2 or 3 nights in Jasper Nat Park (AB) and Smithers, BC and take in some sights. Tomorrow we head to Prince Rupert (about 350 km)to catch the ferry to the Queen Charlottes where we will stay for 10 days! We can't wait to be contained within a small area; set up a camp and leave it there for days. All the big distances are now under our belt - so we are hoping for a bit more relax and chance to connect in local communitites. We can feel it coming. Today we head up to the Hazeltons to take in some native culutre. We are camped in the Smithers Municipal campground (16$/night!). Our tent has survived two nights of thunderstorms (and so have I with a fair bit of tapping). We had one night where we watched a double rainbow grow and receed over a lake with a hard-to-spell name for 90 minutes while we cooked a late supper. As Bar said the other day "it might as well be perfect". Next challenge - laundry. Who has time for laundry? Deb

...didn't get this posted yesterday due to a sd card failure, so here we are at a hostel in Prince Rupert just cooking up supper:  chicken breasts stuffed with esparagus and cheese! Wow are we living it up! We catch the ferry to Queen Charlotte Islands tomorrow and can't wait to get on the islands for some "down" time.

The Snow Birds....yes the planes, were doing an amazing show over the Skeena River in Prince Rupert just as we went for a stroll to buy a bottle of wine to have with supper. What an amazing thing to see....and unexpected. What a great way to get people  congregated down at the water's edge. By the way, the laundry is done now.

In front of the Canmore Hotel where we met in 1978

Morning at the Athabasca Glacier in the Columbia Icefield

Walking...illegally...on the glacier

Barry following Deb ....illegally onto the glacier!!

Melt waters on the glacier 4-5 ft long

Barry on the slack line in Jasper, helped by Claire and Laura - two sisters from Paris. We had a great time singing around the campfire. In particular "Fire's Burning", and "Frere Jacques" in rounds. They also knew some Fiest tunes!

Hiking to the Wilcox Pass in Jasper - 7000 ft.

We hiked about 14 km total - at least 6 through this awesome alpine meadow ringed by mountains.

A bit out of sequence - Jasper Nat Park. Tents only campsite.

More of Wilcox Pass

...and more Wilcox Pass

Ancient Forest Hike

Camping just south of Burn's Lake

Carrying steelhead (in the bag) up to be measured and tagged.

Women work this upper level, recording, tagging and releasing the steelhead back into the river.+

K'san Historical Village - long houses. All are replicas.

Barry in the entrance to the Wolf Clan house, which is also the feast house used in the winter months. No pictures allowed inside, but we had a very informative tour.

Finally - a yoga class in Telkwa at Full Circle Yoga Studio. This woman also teaches in Smithers BC.

The Skeena River along Hwy 16 heading into Prinve Rupert - our lunch stop.