Our Introduction to Nepal

Monday – Oct 27

I’m not really sure where to start. We’ve succeeded in getting ourselves to the other side of the world. Apparently Nepal is about ½ way around the world from North America –  whether you travel from east or west it’s about the same distance. We’ve done a complete 180⁰ “turn” - geographically and culturally. I’ve been moved to tears both mornings: yesterday simply because I was so overwhelmed by what I was seeing and experiencing, and this morning by two simple, poignant events. First – the sight of a simple shopkeeper sweeping out the crumbling stairs in front of his tiny establishment, even though the streets around him are loaded with garbage. The second was while reading the 9 day training program brochure for the Himalayan Java Barista Training Program at a café down the road. We were up early and had gone for breakfast at Himalayan Java. They serve great Nepalese, fresh roasted coffee (our hotel serves only passable instant) and we had a tasty fried egg with cheese on a croissant. The entire staff was made up of young 20-22 year old (I asked) men and women who had all taken this training program and were working so earnestly to serve tourists. Himalayan Java promotes Nepalese coffee and runs a number of coffee shops across the city offering training and good employment to these young people. In our two days here so far we have seen SO much – everywhere we go is a visual feast (and sometimes a respiratory assault). We are seeing things the likes of which we have never seen before and slowly we are unravelling. Unravelling in the best of ways – it is like removing layers that we might cloak ourselves in for protection. This is how I (for one) will slowly open myself to all that is new around me. Like so much of Asia (I suppose) there is much to be uncomfortable with, dirt, filth and poverty. But this morning I was treated to 2 humble, shiny pearls of beauty; this must be the magic of travel.

To get here took a very long time: about 32 hours to be exact. We had a fairly long layover in Seoul, Korea, that got shortened a fair bit when our flight out of San Francisco had to return to Seattle WA after about 2 hours for a medical emergency; a man on our flight had a heart attack. Our 12 hour flight took almost 17 hours. Our layover in Korea, at the Hyatt regency by the airport (complements of Korean Air – great airline by the way) afforded us 5 hours of sleep. Add to that 7 hours to fly to Nepal, wait times in airports, and a long line for a visa upon arrival. But we got here.

I’m reading a great book that I picked up in the airport: “The Round House” by Louise Erdrich (American). At one point in the novel one of the characters made reference to numbness being an emotion. Coming to Nepal brought that comment to life, for me. I went numb upon immersion into this country. I now know that I am like a turtle in so many ways – I withdraw into my shell, and very slowly poke my head back out to sniff the air. Thank goodness for Barry’s confidence and enthusiasm at times like these. For the record – my head’s “full out” now. It does not take long.

We are staying at the Hotel Silver Home – what would be considered a budget hotel. I’ve learned two important things in 2 days: 4 extra dollars per day can buy one quite a lot in terms of a room, and having a room that you find pleasant, clean, and comfortable to come back to after a long day is worth those extra 4 dollars. After 1 night in a standard room we moved into a deluxe room for 18$ per night. It is awesome – big windows that open wide with lots of sun. Great bright red and green walls. This simple change had a big impact on us emotionally. It boosted our enthusiasm and we stepped out yesterday quite eager to tackle Kathmandu on foot. So simple.

View from our window - basically above the main entrance. We walk down a winding dirt road of the main street.

 

We are in the Thamel region/neighbourhood of Kathmandu. It is the tourist district. To walk its streets is an experience that costs nothing, and packs quite a “punch”. Last night I did not sleep well; scenes from our day kept repeating themselves in my mind. The impact was big, to say the least. We went to an organic farmer’s market at a local trendy vegetarian restaurant. Who would have thought that here in Kathmandu we’d find a local food movement. At the market we drank fantastic fresh espresso with Italian pastries. Vendors hawked fresh, grainy looking breads, local cheese, organic greens and cured meats. Organic, locally dried fruits, hand crafted perfume oils and soaps; handmade pasta and local spices all were on display. There were a few Nepali craft sellers and most interesting of all – the distilled cow urine salesman (I kid you not – a form of Ayurvedic therapy). I bought organic dried apples.

Nice restaurant "1905". Named after the year the building was built. Also the site of the farmer's market.

 

We visited the Garden of Dreams and were quickly ushered into a space of green serenity. It costs 2 dollars to enter, and clearly is a popular spot. The relatively small walled-gardens were artfully divided into many different nooks, courtyards, and alleys. Everywhere was beauty and it was easy to find private benches; in fact we saw many young couples tucked into corners… possibly this is one of the only places in this area for a quiet, private bit of space. The open green space had mats and bolsters to lie on. Many people come here to lie on the grass and read, or play quietly with children. I took advantage of the time, space and mats to do some pranayama. While the space exudes calmness – quiet is elusive. The constant honking of horns from outside the garden walls simply can’t be filtered out. Regardless, we will most likely return to this oasis today. I will take my yoga pants.

Horns – cars – driving in Kathmandu. Now this is a topic worthy of its own paragraph. No matter what the vehicle drivers constantly are honking their horns. Apparently this is even considered a form of personal expression. Roads are narrow and for the most part devoid of sidewalks. Many people drive motorbikes, but small cars are also common. Walking through the maze of side streets that so much of this city is composed of one quickly learns to keep their head up! The streets are full of people, often quite crowded, and the motorized vehicles simply drive their way through the crowds. Often we were within inches of vehicles. This is one of those experiences that one must go through to fully appreciate – words do not do it justice.

 

Thanks to our Lonely Planet guide we were able to follow a great walking trail through the old city. Temples, stupas, and narrow streets crowded with pedestrians. Each and every street is lined with small shops which open directly onto the road. There is a huge volume of goods to purchase here; our approach at this point is simply to look. In addition, services are offered out of tiny, tiny shops: even the dentist has a small open office – pictures of teeth out front; a small dentist chair squeezed into what one might call a “closet” at the back. The entire amount of space I think is even less than our 10’x12’ cabin at Big Bay. There is much selling directly off the street and lots of services: tailor, photocopying, shoe and electronics repair, food stuffs, copper, pots and pans, masks, fabrics, incredible gold jewellery… amazing to walk through. Add to this the somewhat crumbling nature of the architecture, the incredible wood carving and brick work, some incredible, beautiful old buildings, tiny alley ways that draw the eye into deeper, darker recesses, the ever present dust and garbage, and well – it is amazing, interesting, “eye-popping”. It is enough to walk and soak it all in.

Our goal on this walk was the Unesco World Heritage Hanuman-dhoka Durbar Square. A large square consisting of Hindu (80% of the population is Hindu) and Buddhist shrines and temples built between the 12^th and 18^th centuries. How can I possibly describe such magnificence? We purchased tickets to enter the site, and by showing our passports at the “site office” now have special passes that we can use to return for free for the rest of our time here. This is one of those place we could wander, sit and watch for an entire day.

Electrical wiring Nepali style - it is not uncommon to have power outages.

Looking up from the street above the bucket and pail shop

Octagonal temple - old, but I don't remember how old

Entrance way into an old monastery courtyard. Three shrines on my right.

 

 

 

 

 

Today we will visit KEEP, the Kathmandu Environmental Education Program. A local organization that runs a tourist office, promotes sustainable trekking, helps tourists plan trekking trips, and is engaged in other community development projects. They have a clothing depot for guides and porters and I have brought my older pair of hiking boots to donate. Tomorrow we head to the Himalayan International Yoga Academy for a 3 day stay in a safari tent, yoga, meditation and vegetarian meals. We will also hike to the “monkey temple” high on the hills overlooking Kathmandu.

Amazing. Enough said. I love taking the time to do this typing and recording both of events and personal experience, but as Fiona recently reminded me – we don’t want to spend all our time on the computer, we want to be OUT there!! XOXO - D

Update: It's been a busy day. We arranged an 8 or 10 day trek into the Lantang Valley (we are still contemplating money and time) with a guide and porter. A local company will set everything in place for us which feels very luxurious right about now.

When we were in Washington at Olympic National Park we met a man who had traveled to Nepal 4 times. His advice was to "get out of Kathmandu". Now we know why. Today wore Barry down - he could only be revived by a beer at the lovely 1905 restaurant (where the farmer's market was - pictures above). We are so glad we came here; and also glad to be leaving.