Tuesday, 17 September 2013

From Portland with love

Where to start? First let it be said that things are not exactly as we may have imagined before we left (no surprise really, and not bad either). For example, we really thought we'd have easy, ready internet access, but that has been harder to find than we thought. Our laptop is very slow and it is hard to post photos. Both contribute to us blogging less than we predicted.

We've had some amazing adventures, great weather, and been treated to some incredible hospitality. We spent 4 glorious, sunny days in Victoria touring the beautiful city. In an act of incredible generosity my old highschool cheerleading chum Patty suggested we camp in her backyard. One thing we are learning is "don't look a gift horse in the mouth" so we took her up on the offer. We had not seen each other for almost 40 years! She and her family graciously shared their space with us for 3 nights and we had a chance to get to know each other again. How surprised we were to walk into her house and see 2 Martin guitars on the wall, a jam space in the basement and a CD/record collection that would make all my music loving friends drool. We had a great music connection with Patty's husband Sean who plays a mean guitar in a band called "The Bald Eagles", and had a lot of fun swapping stories and jamming the night away. We are forever grateful. We spent 2 days and a night with our old friend from Guelph, Ruth. We took in the Emily Carr exhibit at the art gallery together(just fantastic) and spent a fair bit of time simply wandering the streets, Ruth sharing her knowledge of Victoria history. We go way back with Ruth and it was a delight to reconnect in her exceedingly sweet James Bay "strata".
 
 
 
 


We spent a few days in the Washington peninsula, specifically at Olympic National Park, which has 3 distinct zones/areas (alpine, ranforest, and coast). We hiked in sun at Hurricane Ridge amidst spectacular mountain vistas and spontaneoulsy drove to the west coast so that we could visit Ruby Beach. We camped in the damp Pacific Ocean mist that bathes the big trees in constant moisture (and gave thanks for the fact that it was not raining - apparently the area gets 12 feet of rain per year).

 
 

We are now in the incredible city of Portland and it is living up to its reputation. Beautiful architecture, funky, clean and unpretentious. The street food is amazing and there is no sales tax on goods (new laptop?). We are in a cosy hostel with fantastic ameninities, lapping up hot water, fresh coffee, a big soft bed and lots of space. Our big question this morning is - shall we stay another day? There is just so much to do here, plus some business to catch up on. This city, in particular, is very vibrant and it is fantastic to be part of.

We are learning. The transition from camping, empty beach, and the calmness of nature, to big city throws us both for a loop, initially. We've learned to take our time in a city and do a lot of walking. We are starting to think in terms of chasing the weather, instead of the location (which is why we are here now when we thought we would be at Mt. St. Helen's). We are appreciating in a whole new way what the term "rainforest" implies. We've learned that even though this entire coast is lined with forest, different forests are unique - they truly have their own character and feel. We have marveled at the INCREDIBLE abundance of the sea and its ability to truly support communities. We've learned that there is quite a thrill to packing up the car and heading somewhere new even though the unknown can ruffle our feathers a bit. We've learned that if an opportunity presents itself (as in a shower or an exceedingly rare bathtub) one should snatch it up because we really don't know what's ahead. We've learned that even though we love hostelling in cities, we also love getting back to our tent. We've learned that we are good travel mates, even though we sometimes butt up against each other like driftwood being bashed by the surf (and we've seen a LOT of driftwood - BIG driftwood). We've learned that even when we are feeling a little homesick (this was totally triggered in both of us when we crossed into the states) we still want to keep going - together.
 

Wednesday, 4 September 2013

Catching up in Nanaimo

Anti-Enbridge sentiment - Old Massett, haida Gwaii. We saw MANY signs protesting the potential increase in oil tankers that would pass HG if the pipeline (starting in Prince Rupert) goes through. The issue is the increased potential for oil spills and subsequent damage to the local marine ecosystem which is a huge source of food on the island.
Ultra-cute little jam cottage built out of a hollowed out tree stump near Tlell, HG.
Sign in the tree stump jam house
Haida Heritage Centre - great museum and lots of summer cultural events
Tailgate lunch at Rennell Sound, HG 
Singing and dancing - 5th anniversary of Haida Heritage Centre
First dancer - helps to clear the space energetically. There is also eagle down in his headress. The dancer will tilt his head and send clouds of the down into the audience. If soe lands on you it brings good luck.
Describing the patterns on the button robes worn by the women singers/dancers
Ferry - Skidegate to Port Rupert
Humpback whale breaching - there were 2 and they played for about 10 minutes.
15 hour ferry ride, Prince Rupert to Port Hardy on the northern-most tip of Vancouver Isl.


Bar and a whale skeleton at the tiny whale museum at Telegraph Cove


Heron Guesthouse and Hostel - Heriot Bay, Quadra Island. This funky place, and its welcoming proprietress, sheltered us from a heavy rainfall and rare thunder storm.
Car trouble has caused us to detour into Nanaimo on our way to the west coast. A couple of days of good weather has allowed us to explore the City and hang out at a downtown hostel which has also made time to catch up on posting photos...which tends to be a slow process for our aged laptop. Here goes....

Travel mantra - expect the unexpected

Things change. We thought we'd go to Stathcona Park, but then just "felt" that Quadra Island might be the place to go given the forecast and heavy rainfall alert. As i posted on FB, we found a cozy, large guesthouse right on the beach in Heriot Bay and booked a loft room for 2 nights. We had a great time simply enjoying the amenities in this funky little spot. We were able to get 1 hike in, through a large stand of Douglas Fir out onto Rebecca Spit. We had a woodstove to keep us warm and enough sheltered space on the wrap-around deck for me to set out my yoga mat. Our fellow-traveller Lily was good company, but also did her own thing. From Quadra we went to Powell River to visit good friends. We had a day at a sweet little festival, Sunshine Music festival, at Palm Beach. Only 1 stage, but great music and dancing, good food and a real community vibe. We spent a day canoeing to another beach for swimming and hiking, and also hiked a beautiful forest trail to see numerous waterfalls. Our friends are building a house, which meant we could sleep inside (we are getting spoiled as we have not been inour tent for a week now)- not really necessary given the good weather, but appreciated none the less. Now we are in Nanaimo for an unplanned trip to the Subaru dealer. Our trusty Partner Ship appears to have a seized caliper and we had to do a highway stop en-route to Pacific National Rim and get a tow to Nanaimo, and a room at the downtown hostel. It is interestng to slowly be working our way south; towns and citites are larger and the entire area more populated. We've come from quite remote to a city with a vibrant looking arts and cultural scene (although we've also learned that being in a city on a Sun, Mon or Tuesdaay night generally means not much is going on),however, the people here seem a little less friendly. We have yet to learn when our car repairs will be completed.... the sooner the better, but we'll make the most of whatever happens. We are grateful for sun, CAA, and yet another opportunity to see a new place. Yesterday my teaching peers returned to work, and I did not. Somehow, at this particular junction in time, the experience has become a little richer, and a little more savory. We are well aware that we are in a position of incredible luxury (even though stranded on a highway does not feel too luxurious) and freedom. My sister and brother-in-law just suffered a death in the family and we are missing them alot right now, but otherwise revel in this experience. XOXOXOXOXO D

Wednesday, 28 August 2013

The yin and yang of travel

Seems like we are experiencing what some friends have been alluding to when they mentioned that "it won't all be good". I'm feeling a bit discouraged by the weather forecast. We've arrived in Port Hardy (northern Vancouver Island)amidst drizzle and apparently 20mm are on their way. Rumour has it that there is no rain down south (so we will head there, although here at the hostel Patrick also clarified that no rain means showers - they make a clear distinction between the two here!). We've had two cushie nights in 2 different hostels; hot showers with real towels, kitchen facilities, clean, dry sheets (beats damp sleeping bags hands down), and of course heat. We are weighing money against comfort (I question if maybe we should just hole up here), which may be the universal travellers' dilemma. I think we'll risk leaving and head down to Strathcona Park, via Telegraph Cove and the whale museum. We had 2 incredible ferry rides to get here. Skidegate (QCI) to Prince Rupert, and then Prince Rupert to Port Hardy (15 hours). We saw many humpback whales, two that breached and played in the water for at least 10 minutes (ask Bar how hard they are to photograph with a Canon PowerShot). The trip down the Inside Passage was fantastic and we met two lovely siblings from BC travelling together with a beautiful 3 month old baby girl. They gave us some great travel advice, and we had good conversations. Friday or Saturday, we ferry to Powell River to visit good friends; the promise of connection filled with anticipation! We've met loads of wonderful people, but truthfully, at times I've been lonely. Nothing replaces the company of family and friends. I'm experiencing a somehwat poignant duality - a longing for all we've left behind, mingling with a sense of adventure and curiosity about what might come next, gratitude for the incredible luxury of simply being free to travel. This is an emotionally rich experience and we are still learning to ride the wave. Some parts of me are having to harden, while others are being called to soften. I am learning to let go of control, and my close friends may intuit the challenge this can be for me. A challenge, but not necessarily hard - just the "edge" I'm walking these days. In other words, it's all good in a yin/yang sorta' way. To everyone who sends a thought our way, via email or FB, thanks A LOT and keep 'em coming. Possibly sadly, I am reminded of Celine Dion's song, "You are the Wind Beneath my Wings". Cliche and sappy, but so appropriate for us right now. It is amazing to me, that even as we venture farther and farther from home, we still feel so connected, loved, and supported. This truly sustains us and propels us forward - you help us spread our wings and fly. It is its own profound and beautiful lesson, and I marvel at how far these connections can stretch. I find myself singing a song Ruby wrote 2 years ago at Emerald Lake "My Moon" (sorry if I got the title wrong Ruby) - the idea that we are all looking at the same moon even though we are miles apart. Love to all and keep doing the sunshine dance for us. XOXOXO - D

Reflections from Our Lady of the Flannel

There is so much on my mind these days I hardly know where to start. We are learning about landscape, people, and country but are also learning about ourselves and each other. Primarily, each day we are reminded to be open. This can be a challenge at times, but if I am patient with myself, and give myself time to "feel" a place, I have always been able to find something to appreciate about the experience. Right now, for example, we are in a private campground which at first made me very uncomfortable but was a good choice for real, practical reasons. We have been here 2 nights and I've become so grateful for the hot, wood-fired shower, flush toilet, covered picnic table totally sheltered from wind and rain, and a covered wash area. Heaven are these small luxuries. One thing I've really enjoyed learning about is how the Haida hold women in high esteem, especially the elder women. At the potlatch when the entire crowd was being addressed in speeches, first mentioned were the cheifs and second the "boss ladies" or "esteemed ladies". It is a matrilineal culture and of course, pays due respect to elders. Ceremony seems to play large, and seems to involve most of the community if not all. There is so much incredible art and beauty. People are very friendly and there are some vibrant, funky pockets in the small mostly white towns. I am so glad we have come here. The weather has been less than stellar. Mostly I wear rubber boots, my wool toque, a fleeze and have a raincoat on hand. Some will not be surprised to know that my gloves are getting a good workout. But even this, has not really dampened our spirits. I am thinking about work, of any sort, and its value. So many of my daily routines were wrapped aropund my work schedule. Now all that is gone and many of the "rituals" I held dear have been let go. Gladly, this is OK. I find small ways to establish some personal space, and have changed my thinking on some things - like clean just might be a relative thing, and Jiffy Pop just might be the perfect snack. One can do a fair bit of yoga standing up, and sometimes simply breathing is the practice for the day. We are getting better at this thing called travel. As always, love to all. Your love and friendship sustains us.

Sunday, 25 August 2013

Haida Gwaii 3

Start of a day's beach bike with Tow Hill in background

Driftwood on North Beach with Tow Hill way in the background

Starfish on Agate Beach

In shore trail at high tide...Agate Beach



Looking out to Rose Spit

Warrior pose?


See Alaska?



The drive into Agate Beach was lined with Sitka Spuce draped in moss that I thought of as carpet moss. It was truly magical.




Sunset beach view from our campsite


Haida Gwaii 2

Agate Beach - low tide
Tow Hill reflecting off mud flats
"Knuckle" chunk of basalt poking through the sand at base of outcrop