Wednesday, 21 August 2013

Haida Gwaii

It is raining today. All day. The good thing about this is that we had the BEST cinnamon buns with raisins I've ever had in the cutest, coziest, warmest cafe one might ever find in the midst of a forest. We are learning that being open is what travelling is all about. We are currently camped on gorgeous Agate Beach on the northern-most shore of Haida Gwaii just outside of Masset. Camping here is cheap - 16$ per night. Generally this gets one access to a great beach, drinking water, and pit toilets. At this particular campground there is also an enclosed shelter with a wood stove, which we envision using once we return to our no doubt soggy site. Recently we've come to the conclusion that we need to stay at least 2 nights in one place, because tear down and set-up of camping gear can be a pain. Weather for tomorrow looks fair enough that we can hike this huge stretch of beach... so we think we'll be here 3 nights!
Ferry Prince Rupert to Queen Charlotte Island. Saw orcas and humpback whales!

Hiking into Spirit Lake - just outside of Skidegate.

Spirit Lake was pretty small, but very peaceful. We spent a fair bit of time just sitting by the lake watching 3 marvelous eagles.

We were pretty close to this beautiful bird

Big trees - there are lots of them. In a way our photos can't do them justice. The phrase "formidable forest" comes to mind. There is also lots of green and moss, moss, and more moss.
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Log stairs hiking into Yakoun Lake.

Yakoun Lake near Queen Charlotte City.

Same lake - enough said.

Community Potlatch/Feast to celebrate raising of Legacy Pole on Lyell Island. At least 1000 people were fed: soups, fresh crab, salmon, halibut, crab cakes and octopus fritters. Desserts, veggies and dip, and fruit. In addition, people were invited to take food home. For all those who stayed until the end (we got there at 3, left at 9:30, end at 1:30am) as witnesses, gifts were given out.



The Pesuta shipwreck of 1928 in Naikoon Provincial Park.

Naikoon Provincial Park beach looking into Hecate Strait.

Barry having fun with some bull kelp.

Our lovely new friend Mary on her Harley. We spent 2 nights with her and hiked together to see the Pesuta. I will forever remember her quote: "you gotta' ride your ride".

View north from Tow Hill

View in other direction from Tow Hill. We are camped on this beach.

Tow Hill - a basalt outcrop.

The beach at low tide has left tons of small swirls of sand with little breathing holes. What are they?

"Our" beach at low tide



Full moon rising

Funky Moon Over Naikoon Bakery. BEST cinnamon buns on a rainy morning. 

Mossy cemetary of Masset

Wednesday, 14 August 2013

Getting through Canada

As it turns out, driving through Canada and camping is alot of work. We've had 5 solid days in the car, the last one being between Jasper and Burns Lake BC which took 12 hours. Yes we took a lunch break by Slim Creek, yes we hiked 45 minutes through the short Ancient Forest trail East of Prince George, but still 12 hours in a car is enough to drive one crazy (I won't mention the mistake we made that added an extra hour to the trip). We are now pretty fast with setup and tear down, and usually work effectively as a team. Because we have chosen some long travel days, we've been able to stay 2 or 3 nights in Jasper Nat Park (AB) and Smithers, BC and take in some sights. Tomorrow we head to Prince Rupert (about 350 km)to catch the ferry to the Queen Charlottes where we will stay for 10 days! We can't wait to be contained within a small area; set up a camp and leave it there for days. All the big distances are now under our belt - so we are hoping for a bit more relax and chance to connect in local communitites. We can feel it coming. Today we head up to the Hazeltons to take in some native culutre. We are camped in the Smithers Municipal campground (16$/night!). Our tent has survived two nights of thunderstorms (and so have I with a fair bit of tapping). We had one night where we watched a double rainbow grow and receed over a lake with a hard-to-spell name for 90 minutes while we cooked a late supper. As Bar said the other day "it might as well be perfect". Next challenge - laundry. Who has time for laundry? Deb

...didn't get this posted yesterday due to a sd card failure, so here we are at a hostel in Prince Rupert just cooking up supper:  chicken breasts stuffed with esparagus and cheese! Wow are we living it up! We catch the ferry to Queen Charlotte Islands tomorrow and can't wait to get on the islands for some "down" time.

The Snow Birds....yes the planes, were doing an amazing show over the Skeena River in Prince Rupert just as we went for a stroll to buy a bottle of wine to have with supper. What an amazing thing to see....and unexpected. What a great way to get people  congregated down at the water's edge. By the way, the laundry is done now.


In front of the Canmore Hotel where we met in 1978

Morning at the Athabasca Glacier in the Columbia Icefield


Walking...illegally...on the glacier

Barry following Deb ....illegally onto the glacier!!

Melt waters on the glacier 4-5 ft long

Barry on the slack line in Jasper, helped by Claire and Laura - two sisters from Paris. We had a great time singing around the campfire. In particular "Fire's Burning", and "Frere Jacques" in rounds. They also knew some Fiest tunes!

Hiking to the Wilcox Pass in Jasper - 7000 ft.

We hiked about 14 km total - at least 6 through this awesome alpine meadow ringed by mountains.

A bit out of sequence - Jasper Nat Park. Tents only campsite.

More of Wilcox Pass

...and more Wilcox Pass


Ancient Forest Hike



Camping just south of Burn's Lake






Carrying steelhead (in the bag) up to be measured and tagged.

Women work this upper level, recording, tagging and releasing the steelhead back into the river.+


K'san Historical Village - long houses. All are replicas.

Barry in the entrance to the Wolf Clan house, which is also the feast house used in the winter months. No pictures allowed inside, but we had a very informative tour.


Finally - a yoga class in Telkwa at Full Circle Yoga Studio. This woman also teaches in Smithers BC.

The Skeena River along Hwy 16 heading into Prinve Rupert - our lunch stop.

Thursday, 8 August 2013

Two Bad Asses in the Badlands

Thanks to Jess for giving us the idea for this blog post. After a great tour of Calgary we sat down in her kitchen to do our first blog on the road. We had a great Indian dinner in Kensington and a wonderful walking tour of downtown and the river...including the flood damage. All we really have energy left to do tonight is post a bunch of photos from our busy week on the road.

Ontario, Manitoba, Saskatchewan, Alberta.....Aunt June's in North Bay was a great start to our 6 month adventure. More later, I'm sure....all is good.
Hoodoos in the Badlands


Fun in North Bay. 

Deb doing 'photographer' pose. 

Bar doing 'star pose'.

Where the hell was this?

Deb, campsite below in Dinosaur Provincial Park. 

Deb is Dinner.

Bar at the Tyrell Museum in Drumheller.

Hoodoos in Dinosaur Provincial Park, AB.

Helicopter building hydro towers.

At Jess' place. 

Jessie at the egg co-op.